Growing Together in India

If you are in a long-distance relationship and need to traverse oceans to see each other, it does not really matter which ocean you cross. That's why Jon and I decided our next meeting would be in India. For me, India had been a bucket-list dream and together with my roommate Lisa, we planned this trip a year before Jon and I met. Lisa and I love colors, spicy food and take every opportunity to dress up - India seemed like the perfect place for us. To my delight - Jon was willing to join us.

Jodhpur - The Blue City (3 days)

Lisa and I arrived 4 days before Jon and stayed in Jodhpur at a trendy hostel for backpackers: Zostel. Their staff is friendly and the rooftop terrace is an inviting place to indulge in a Mango Lassi in the afternoon. Across the street from Zostel, there is a multi-story hotel that serves delicious Indian food and offers a grand view of the Old Fort which is lit at night. The old part of Jodphur is beautiful and most of the houses are painted blue - a spectacular sight from the Old Fort (which happens to overlook the entire city). We also took a walking tour through the blue part of the city and little excursions to gorgeous gardens and old detailed temples which we highly recommend. The best way to get around in India is a tuk-tuk (the three-wheeled and open to the air alternative to a cab which the locals call “auto”). This way, you don’t only get around cheap but you also experience the Indian lifestyle up close: A cow in the middle of the road causing everyone to swerve, getting “gently” bumped by another tuk-tuk, a random Indian guy joining you for part of the ride - and you might even be offered to drive the tuk-tuk - like me 😉. For breakfast, we made our way to the Clock Tower to have an almost "Western-Style" breakfast at Café Royale - just the coffee still tastes more like Masala Tea (which, in my opinion, is the better alternative anyway). Having a strong stomach and ready for an experience, we also ate at the Omelette Shop, a small hole in the wall near the Clock Tower. It looks quite dirty - but your taste buds will be rewarded if you dare!

On our last day in Jodhpur, we went on a trip to Osian, an ancient town, one and a half hours away from Jodhpur. Here we toured an incredible ornamented temple, took a camel ride and a Jeep drive into the dunes and ended with a home-cooked dinner prepared by our driver’s wife. By Indian standards, this excursion was a touch expensive but well worth the trip!

New Delhi - The Lay-Over City (1/2 day and lots of hours at the airport)

Finally!!! Jon arrived at New Delhi airport. Re-uniting with him was almost as exciting as watching his eyes light up as we walked out of the airport 😊. An entourage of about a hundred cab-drivers was shouting out for us to take their cab. They barely take 'no' for an answer. One driver will clutch your arm from one side to lead you to his cab, another shouts, 'I have good price', another proclaims, 'You need taxi?!', while yet another strongly suggests, 'where you go? Follow me!'.

Jon's First Indian Car Ride
Have you ever watched video footage of the apparent 'chaos' in a beehive? What looks like chaos to an outsider, is actually a well-orchestrated dance. That is what Indian transportation is like; only instead of bees going every direction, you have: cars, buses, trucks, taxis, cows, dogs, elephants, bicycles, and even people, walking, crossing and weaving between and around each other.

Thanks to our cab driver's skillful navigation, we made it to our hostel just long enough to set our luggage down. Immediately, we took a tuk-tuk to the Swaminarayan Akshardham temple. Every square inch of this white marble temple was immaculately hand carved with various animals, gods, flowers, and designs...I've never seen anything like it!

Throughout our travels in India, Delhi was always the airport we came back to in between destinations - as a result of this, we were able to retrieve Lisa's backpack which had been lost on one of our flights and was missing for several days...

Amritsar - The City of the Golden Temple (2 days)

In the morning we left for Amritsar via an 8-hour train ride. Amritsar is in the state of Punjab and not too far from the Indian-Pakistan border. Amritsar is home to the infamous Golden Temple, belonging to the Seek faith. We were once again amazed by the intricate artwork of the temple and the immaculate grounds surrounding it. Jon was especially intrigued by the Seeks' religious zeal: bowing at one tree, kissing this pillar and touching that one, kneeling to the ground and kissing the marble floor, washing their feet on the way in and out. Many people wanted photos with us, and most often we obliged. Jon was nearly giddy when he filmed himself in a holy festival parade, in which he joined a bunch of kids for conversation, photos, and dance. The following day we joined a family from Amritsar for dinner. Jon explained the secret of joining an Indian family for dinner like this: "You need to spread your food out thinly across your plate that way you don't have too much at one time. This also enables you to take the second and third portions. My God! These people must think we have bottomless pits for stomachs! And you dare not offend them by not eating enough or leaving leftovers on your plate."

The Indian-Pakistan border closing ceremony, located in Attari, is a must-see! It is a short drive from Amritsar, and it will not disappoint. The ceremony happens daily before sunset and would rival any sporting event. With moderately sized stadiums on either border, the ceremony begins with a flamboyant parade of soldiers marching back and forth on the road leading to the border crossing. There is a combination of cheering, ladies dancing, and soldiers kicking their legs as high above their heads as possible. You may think a real battle is about to begin, but this obscure celebration is a well-choreographed event that has been taking place since 1959.

Varanasi - The Holy City (3 days)

Finding our way to our hostel in Varanasi was an adventure unto itself. Suffice it to say that after a two-hour plane ride, a 90-minute taxi ride, and a 20-minute walk through narrow crowded streets at night-time led by a small Indian boy we had never met before, we were more than relieved when we finally made it.

After setting our luggage down, we decided to go out and explore the city and the shoreline of the Ganges river. From the river looking up, you see an expanse of steps leading to a great concrete wall stretching for a mile. This great wall is actually the city buildings sitting upon a hill looking proudly down over her holy river. Lining the steps and the walls are dogs, cows, monkeys, people, housing structures, fishing boats, temples, and restaurants. It really is a sight to see!

One day while walking into and being absorbed by the concrete walls, we found our way into a Hindu temple. Once again, we were fascinated by the ornate architecture and art of the temple. The shaman who summoned us into this holy relic believed he was speaking English to us but we could not make out a word he was saying. Nonetheless, we followed him through the temple offering him our thanks, and some money - which he also demanded from us for giving a tour. One thing you will quickly discover in India is that people will approach you with the biggest and happiest smiles offering their help or explanation of what it is you are seeing. After receiving their help they will let you know how much their help cost. This can seem frustrating at first, and sometimes it is, but you will get used to it, and quickly you will realize that very seldom do you really need anyone's assistance; just be ready to pay when you do.

It is also worth mentioning that Varanasi is a sort of Mecca for the Hindu faith. Hindus from all around India travel to Varanasi to cremate and spread the ashes of loved ones into the Ganges river. The belief is that if one dies in Varanasi and an elaborate ceremony is performed, the soul of the deceased will skip reincarnation and will go straight to Nirvana. We observed the ceremony on a few different occasions. Each time we watched we felt a little more earthy. Jon often said during our trip, "In India, you get down and dirty with humanity and creation. You walk among the cows, the beggars, the children and the aged alike. Heck, even the dead are in a line waiting their turn to be burned; the families touch the deceased body, carry it through the streets, and then wash it in the river. In America, everything is sterile. Can you imagine the complaints the restaurant manager would hear if a server handed a customer their sandwich with his bare hands, let alone mash your fruit for your smoothie with his bare hands? Or when on a walk through town, a family was carrying their deceased grandma on a plank of wood for anyone passing by to see?" Yes, this can be uncomfortable, but there is also a beauty to it because everything here feels very real.

Palolem, Goa - A Place to Relax (5 days)

Reaching Goa as our final destination was a much anticipated and relaxing 5 days. When referring to Goa (one of India's 29 states), travelers are referring to the stretch of land within Goa that lines the Arabian Sea and is known for its gorgeous white sandy beaches and lush flora. We arrived just after the hurricane season ended, and most of the 'hotels' were still in the rebuilding phase. Although our lodgings were modest, we felt as though we were living like royalty. A two-course seafood meal for 3, with plenty of flavorful drinks, candlelight and beach-side seating only cost about $25.

Shopping for clothes and trinkets was just around the corner and compared to Western prices, the products are a fraction of the price. We were impressed as we watched the 'village' come out to help the fisherman drag their nets in from the sea to discover what their efforts for the day would profit them. We also took a 2-hour private boat tour in which we perused the picturesque coastline and even watched dolphins play in the water. During one of our excursions, all three of us successfully surfed beginning level waves with the help of a 90-minute surf lesson. I never thought I would ever be able to stand up on one of those boards! But Goa is the best place to learn surfing - the water is crystal clear and at bathtub temperature.

After our Indian 'vacation', we were truly impressed! And, believe it or not, neither Jon, Lisa or I got sick. Not once! However, India is not for the faint of heart. It requires the ability to live uncomfortably, to let go of cultural norms of personal space and cleanliness, to make patience and flexibility your mantra, and to be OK with being scammed on occasion. The reward for doing this: meeting beautiful people with giant smiles, taking part in a culture vastly different from your own, dining on incredible food, gazing at the most creative color combinations, and leaving with a sense of being more connected to humanity and the earth.